The Leather Guide

The Science of a Solid Stitch: Why I’m Reviving Leather Craft in the Riverina When I moved to Wagga Wagga to study Agricultural Science at Charles Sturt University, I thought my future was firmly planted in the paddock. I was all about soil health, crop rotation, and understanding the science behind what makes our land tick. But somewhere between lectures on agronomy and weekends spent playing polocrosse I realised something: the same principles that apply to good farming apply to good craftsmanship. Quality materials. Time-tested methods. Gear that’s built to last, not built to end up in landfill. That’s when I picked up my first piece of leather and a mallet. And honestly? I haven’t looked back. Why the Riverina Needs a Craft Revival Let’s be real: we live in a world where most gear has a use-by date shorter than a season. You buy a belt from a chain store, and six months later, the stitching’s blown out or the leather’s cracking like drought-stricken earth. In the Ag industry, that doesn’t cut it. If your knife pouch fails in the middle of a job, or your dog’s collar snaps during muster, it’s not just annoying: it’s a problem. You need gear that works as hard as you do. That’s why I started CG Creations. I wanted to bring back the kind of leatherworking that our grandparents would recognise: solid materials, proper construction, and products that age like good boots, not cheap sneakers. The Difference Between Real Leather and… Whatever That Other Stuff Is Here’s the thing about full-grain leather: it’s the top layer of the hide. It hasn’t been sanded down, split, or covered in plastic coatings to hide imperfections. You get the natural grain, the character, and most importantly: the strength. When I’m cutting leather for a belt or a dog collar, I’m looking for thickness, density, and how the grain sits. It’s the same attention to detail you’d give when assessing soil structure or choosing seed varieties. The science matters. Full-grain leather gets better with age. It develops a patina, molds to its owner, and can handle decades of sun, rain, and hard yakka. Compare that to bonded leather or “genuine leather” (which is basically leather scraps glued together), and there’s no contest. Every product that leaves my workshop is made from premium full-grain leather and finished with solid hardware. Why brass/Stainless Steel? Because it won’t rust, it won’t break, and it looks better the longer you use it. From the CSU Lab to the Workshop Bench Studying Ag Science taught me to question everything. Why does this work? What makes it better? How can we improve it? I apply that same mindset to leatherwork. When I’m building a Kelpie Collar for a working dog, I’m thinking about stress points, movement, and durability. These dogs are athletes: they’re mustering sheep, running fence lines, and putting their gear through hell. So the collar needs to be strong enough to handle the work, but comfortable enough that the dog forgets it’s even wearing it. That means careful measuring, reinforced stitching with heavy-duty nylon thread, and hardware that won’t fail when it matters most. The same goes for our handmade leather belts. A good belt isn’t just a fashion statement: it’s a tool. Whether you’re carrying a knife, a radio, or just keeping your daks up during a long day on the tractor, your belt needs to do its job without complaint. Why Our Workshops Are Fully Booked (Hint: It’s Not Just About Leather) When I first started running leatherworking workshops, I thought people would come for the skills. And sure, learning to hand-stitch a Card Wallet or stamp your name into a leather piece, it is pretty satisfying. But what I’ve discovered is that people are desperate for something deeper: the chance to make something with their own hands, away from their phones. Our workshops have become a massive hit: not just in Wagga, but with people driving in from all over the State. Farmers, teachers, kids, tradies, bank managers: they all rock up with the same look on their faces. They’re tired of screens. They want to create something real. There’s something almost meditative about working with leather. The smell of it. The resistance of the needle as you push it through. The rhythmic tap of the mallet on a stamping tool. You can’t rush it. You can’t swipe through it. You have to be present. And at the end of a two-hour workshop, you walk out with something you made yourself. Not bought. Not downloaded. Made by you. If you’ve been thinking about trying your hand at leatherwork, book a workshop here. We run beginner-friendly sessions regularly, and I promise: you’ll leave with more than just a leather piece. You’ll leave with a new skill and a whole lot of satisfaction. The Gear That Gets the Job Done At CG Creations, we make products that actually get used. This isn’t decorative leather that sits on a shelf: it’s working gear for working people (and working dogs). The Kelpie Collar is our hero product. It’s designed specifically for Australian working dogs who need comfort, durability, and a collar that won’t quit. These collars are built to handle years of hard work. Handmade Leather Belts are custom-fit to your measurements. You pick the leather, the buckle, and whether you want your name stamped on it. Every belt is cut, finished, and stitched right here in Wagga. And if you have a non-standard buckle (like a trophy-style buckle), just reach out: measuring is slightly different and requires some extra dimensions. Knife Pouches are another workshop staple. Whether you’re a fencer, a farmer, or just someone who likes to carry a decent blade, a proper leather pouch protects your knife and keeps it accessible. We can custom-make these to fit specific knives, and they age beautifully. Why Wagga? Why Now? The Riverina has always been a place where people know the value of hard work and quality gear. But somewhere...

Let’s be honest: your dog isn’t just a pet. They’re family. They’re the one who greets you at the door like you’ve been gone for years (even if it was just five minutes). They’re your walking buddy, your couch companion, and probably the best listener you’ve ever met. So why would you slap some cheap, mass-produced collar around their neck? Your best mate deserves better. They deserve a luxury dog collar that’s built to last, looks absolutely stunning, and fits them perfectly. And that’s exactly what we create here at CG Creations in Wagga Wagga. The Problem with Those Cheap Imports We’ve all been there. You grab a collar from the pet store because it’s convenient and the price looks right. Fast forward a few months, and the thing is cracking, fading, or falling apart at the seams. The hardware’s gone rusty, the “leather” (if it ever was leather) is peeling, and your dog’s looking at you like you’ve let them down. Here’s the thing about mass-produced collars: they’re designed to be replaced. They’re made overseas with the cheapest materials possible, churned out by the thousands with zero attention to detail. The leather: if you can call it that: is often bonded leather scraps or synthetic materials dressed up to look like the real deal. And the fit? Forget about it. You get a few standard sizes and hope for the best. If your dog falls between sizes or has a unique build, tough luck. What Makes a Handmade Leather Dog Collar Different When you choose a handmade leather dog collar from CG Creations, you’re getting something that’s built completely differently from the ground up. Every collar we make starts with premium full-grain leather. Not bonded. Not genuine (which sounds fancy but is actually one of the lowest grades). Full-grain: the real deal. This is the strongest, most durable part of the hide, and it’s what gives our collars that beautiful, natural look that only gets better with age. That’s right: while those cheap collars are falling apart, a quality leather collar develops a rich patina over time. It tells the story of every walk, every swim, every adventure you and your mate share together. It becomes uniquely theirs. Each collar is machine-stitched with heavy-duty nylon thread right here in our Wagga Wagga workshop. Not in a factory overseas. Not by someone who’s never met a working dog. By us: people who understand that a collar needs to handle whatever your dog throws at it. It’s the Leather That Makes the Difference Now, we offer brass hardware as a premium option, and it does look absolutely stunning against that rich leather. Brass develops its own character over time and won’t rust like cheaper alternatives. But here’s what we want you to understand: the real luxury comes from the leather itself. You could put the fanciest hardware in the world on a cheap collar, and it’d still be a cheap collar. The foundation matters. When you start with premium full-grain leather, everything else just elevates what’s already exceptional. The leather we use is thick, supple, and built to last for years. It won’t crack in the sun. It won’t go brittle in the cold. It handles wet weather, muddy puddles, and enthusiastic rolls in questionable substances without missing a beat. Custom Sizing: Because Your Dog Isn’t “Standard” Here’s something that frustrates us about the pet industry: the assumption that all dogs fit neatly into small, medium, or large. Your Border Collie isn’t built like your neighbour’s Border Collie. Your Kelpie might have a completely different frame to the one down the road. And don’t even get us started on trying to find the right fit for breeds that are a bit… unique in their proportions. That’s why every custom leather dog collar we make is sized specifically for your dog. You give us the measurements, and we build the collar to fit them perfectly. Not close enough. Not “this size should work.” Perfect. A properly fitted collar is more comfortable for your dog, more secure, and lasts longer because it’s not constantly being stressed by a poor fit. How to Measure for Your Custom Collar Getting the right measurements is easier than you might think. We’ve got two main collar styles, and each one measures a bit differently. For Buckle Collars (Traditional Belt-Style) If your dog already has a buckle collar that fits well, this is the easiest method: Lay the collar flat on a table Fold it at the hole you use most often Measure from the fold to the end of the leather strap (not including the buckle) That’s it. This measurement tells us exactly where that sweet spot is for your dog, and we’ll build the collar around it. Think of it just like measuring a belt: you’re not measuring the entire length, just the functional part that matters for the fit. For Clip-Up Collars Clip-up collars work a bit differently because there’s no buckle adjustment. For these, we need the total material length. If you’ve got an existing clip-up collar that fits well, simply measure the entire length of the leather or material from end to end (excluding the clips themselves). This gives us the exact size to replicate so your new collar fits just as comfortably as the old one: but looks a whole lot better and lasts a whole lot longer. Make It Personal: Name Stamping Want to take your dog’s collar from beautiful to truly one-of-a-kind? We offer personalisation through name stamping. Having your dog’s name stamped into the leather isn’t just a nice touch: it’s practical too. If your adventurous mate ever decides to go exploring without you, a clear name on the collar makes it that much easier for someone to help get them home. Plus, there’s something special about seeing their name embossed into that premium leather. It makes the collar undeniably theirs. Built for Aussie Dogs Living Aussie Lives We’re based in regional NSW, and we understand what Australian...

How many belts have you gone through in the last five years? If you’re like most people, the answer is probably “too many.” The buckle starts to tarnish. The leather cracks and peels. The holes stretch out until you’re punching new ones with a screwdriver. And before you know it, you’re back at the shops, buying another belt that’ll last maybe eighteen months if you’re lucky. Here’s the thing: it doesn’t have to be that way. A properly made leather belt: crafted from full-grain leather with solid brass hardware: isn’t something you replace every year or two. It’s something you own for decades. It’s the belt you grab without thinking because it just works, every single time. At CG Creations, we make those belts by hand in our Wagga Wagga workshop. And today, I want to explain exactly why a full-grain leather belt is worth the investment: and what separates the real deal from the stuff you’ll find hanging on department store racks. The Leather Quality Problem Nobody Talks About Walk into any clothing store and you’ll see belts labelled “genuine leather” everywhere. Sounds legit, right? It’s got “genuine” right there in the name. Here’s the catch: “genuine leather” is actually one of the lowest grades of leather you can buy. It’s a marketing term, not a quality indicator. In the leather world, it basically means “this is technically leather” : and that’s about as reassuring as a restaurant advertising “real food.” The leather industry has a hierarchy, and it goes something like this: Full-grain leather sits at the top. It’s made from the outermost layer of the hide: the part that faced the elements while the animal was alive. This layer has the tightest, densest fibre structure, which makes it incredibly strong and durable. The natural grain surface is left completely intact, with all its character and markings. Top-grain leather is the next step down. The surface has been sanded or buffed to remove imperfections, which also removes some of the natural strength. Genuine leather comes from the layers beneath the surface. It’s weaker, less durable, and often coated with synthetic finishes to make it look better than it is. Bonded leather is essentially leather dust and scraps glued together with plastic. It’s the particle board of the leather world. When you buy a “genuine leather” belt from a chain store, you’re usually getting something that’ll start cracking and peeling within a year or two. The surface finish flakes off. The material dries out. It looks tired before you’ve even broken it in properly. Full-grain leather does the opposite. It gets better with age. Why Full-Grain Leather Actually Improves Over Time This is the part that surprises most people: a full-grain leather belt doesn’t just last longer: it actually looks better the more you wear it. That’s because of something called patina. As full-grain leather ages, it develops a rich, glossy sheen from exposure to natural oils, sunlight, and everyday handling. The colour deepens. The surface develops character. Those natural markings in the hide: the ones that lower-grade leather manufacturers sand away: become part of the belt’s unique story. A full-grain belt you’ve worn for five years doesn’t look “old.” It looks seasoned. Lived-in. Like something with actual history behind it. Compare that to a cheap belt, which just looks… worn out. There’s a difference between ageing gracefully and falling apart, and the leather quality determines which one you get. Full-grain leather also breathes naturally. The intact grain surface allows moisture to escape, which means it stays comfortable against your skin and doesn’t develop that weird synthetic smell that coated leathers get over time. The Hardware Makes All the Difference Leather gets most of the attention, but hardware matters just as much. A belt is only as strong as its weakest point: and on most cheap belts, that weak point is the buckle. Mass-produced belts typically use zinc alloy or plated steel hardware. It looks shiny and nice in the store. Six months later? The plating starts wearing off. The buckle corrodes. The prong bends or breaks. You end up with a perfectly good strap attached to hardware that’s given up on life. We use solid brass hardware on our belts. Not brass-plated. Not brass-coloured. Actual solid brass. Brass doesn’t rust. It doesn’t corrode. It develops its own patina over time, complementing the leather beautifully. A solid brass buckle will outlast you if you let it. It’s a small detail that makes a massive difference to how long your belt actually lasts. Made by Hand in Wagga Wagga Every belt we make at CG Creations is crafted in our workshop right here in Wagga Wagga, regional NSW. We’re not a warehouse with a fancy website. We’re actual leatherworkers who cut, edge, burnish, stitch, and finish every single piece ourselves. That means quality control isn’t a department: it’s just us, checking every belt before it goes out the door. Our belts are machine-stitched with heavy-duty nylon thread. This creates a strong, consistent stitch line that holds up to years of daily wear. The edges are properly burnished and finished, not just painted over to hide rough cuts. When you buy from us, you’re getting something made by people who genuinely care about the craft. Not assembled in a factory somewhere and shipped in bulk. Actually made, start to finish, by hands that know what they’re doing. Getting the Right Fit A belt that doesn’t fit properly is a belt that doesn’t get worn. That’s why we offer custom sizing on all our belts. Here’s the thing about belt sizing: it’s not the same as your pants size. Your belt size is typically 2-4 inches larger than your trouser waist measurement, depending on how you wear your pants and where your belt sits. We’ve put together a detailed sizing guide to help you get the perfect fit. Measure an existing belt that fits well, or measure around your body where you actually wear your belt. It takes two minutes and...

If you’ve spent any time on the land, you know your GME radio isn’t just a gadget: it’s a lifeline. Whether you’re mustering cattle, checking on stock, or coordinating with the crew across the paddock, that little two-way keeps everything running smoothly. It cops dust, gets knocked around in the ute, and somehow keeps working through it all. So why are you still carrying it in a flimsy nylon pouch that’s falling apart at the seams? Your GME is built tough. It deserves a holster that can keep up. That’s where a proper leather radio holster comes in. GME Radios: Built for Australian Conditions Let’s be honest: GME has been the go-to for Aussie farmers, tradies, and anyone working in remote areas for decades. These radios are designed to handle the harsh Australian environment. Dust, heat, rain, rough handling: they take it all in stride. GME doesn’t cut corners on quality, and that’s exactly why their gear lasts. The construction is solid. The components are reliable. They’re built to work hard, day in and day out. So it makes sense that your radio holster should match that same standard. A cheap plastic clip or a thin fabric pouch just doesn’t cut it when you’re dealing with real working conditions. You need something that’s going to protect your investment and hold up under pressure. Why Leather Is the Smart Choice There’s a reason leather has been used for working gear for centuries. It’s tough, it’s durable, and it actually gets better with age. Unlike synthetic materials that crack, fade, and fall apart, full-grain leather develops character over time while maintaining its strength. Here’s what makes leather the perfect match for your GME radio: It handles the elements. Full-grain leather naturally resists moisture and dust. It’s not going to disintegrate after a few months in the ute or crack in the summer heat. It protects what matters. Leather provides a solid barrier against knocks, bumps, and scratches. Your radio sits snug and secure instead of rattling around. It lasts for years. We’re talking genuine longevity here. A well-made leather holster isn’t a seasonal purchase: it’s a one-time investment that’ll serve you for the long haul. It looks the part. Let’s face it, there’s something about quality leather gear that just feels right. It belongs on the farm, in the workshop, and out in the bush. Handcrafted in Our Wagga Wagga Workshop Every radio holster we make at CG Creations comes straight from our workshop here in Wagga Wagga. We’re not importing mass-produced gear from overseas. Each piece is cut, stitched, and finished right here by hand. We use premium full-grain leather: the top layer of the hide where all the strength lives. This isn’t the split leather or bonded stuff you find in cheap accessories. Full-grain leather is the real deal, and it’s what gives our holsters their durability and that classic look. The stitching is where a lot of cheaper holsters fall apart (literally). We use heavy-duty machine stitching with industrial-grade nylon thread. This thread is specifically designed for high-stress applications. It won’t rot, fray, or snap under pressure. Every seam is reinforced to handle the daily demands of life on the land.   Built for a Perfect Fit One size fits all? Not in our workshop. We design our radio holsters to fit your GME properly. That means your radio slides in and stays put without being too tight or too loose. No more fishing around trying to grab it in a hurry. No more worrying about it bouncing out when you’re on the move. We also include practical features that actually make sense for working conditions: External mic clip – Keeps your microphone accessible and untangled Adjustable loop or strap – Sits comfortably on your belt or can be adapted to different carrying setups Solid brass or stainless steel hardware – No cheap plastic buckles or clips that’ll snap when you need them most Open design for speaker access – You can hear incoming calls clearly without pulling the radio out These aren’t fancy extras: they’re the details that make a holster actually useful when you’re busy working. Durability That Matches Your Gear Here’s the thing about buying quality: you only have to do it once. A properly made leather holster will outlast multiple cheap alternatives. The leather moulds to your radio over time, creating a custom fit that gets better with use. The brass hardware won’t rust or corrode. The nylon stitching holds firm through years of daily wear. We hear from customers all the time who’ve been using their CG Creations gear for five, ten, even fifteen years. That’s not an accident: it’s the result of using the right materials and taking the time to build things properly. When you’re out checking fences at dawn or finishing up after dark, you want gear you can rely on without thinking about it. That’s what we’re aiming for with every piece we make. Made for Life on the Land Our radio holsters are designed with real working conditions in mind. We know they’re going to spend time in dusty utes, get rained on, and cop plenty of wear and tear. That’s the whole point. Whether you’re: Mustering stock across the back paddock Coordinating with shearers during a busy day Working on machinery in the shed Out spotlighting or checking traps Running a property where communication keeps everyone safe A leather holster keeps your GME protected and within easy reach. It’s one less thing to worry about when you’ve got a hundred other jobs on the go. Custom Options Available Need something a bit different? We can work with you on custom orders. Maybe you’ve got a specific model that needs a particular fit. Maybe you want your station name or initials stamped into the leather. Or perhaps you need a setup that works with your existing belt rig. Just get in touch and let us know what you’re after. Custom work is what we do best: creating gear...

There’s nothing worse than ordering a beautiful handmade leather belt online, waiting for it to arrive, and then realising it doesn’t fit properly. Too tight and you’re uncomfortable all day. Too loose and you’re constantly hitching up your pants. Neither is a good look. The good news? Getting the perfect belt size is actually pretty simple once you know how. And because every CG Creations belt is made to order right here in Wagga Wagga, we can get your size spot on, no guesswork required. Let me walk you through exactly how to measure for your new full grain leather belt so it fits like a dream from day one. Why Belt Sizing Matters (Especially for Handmade Belts) When you buy a mass-produced belt from a department store, you’re usually stuck with standard sizes that might sort of fit. You punch extra holes, deal with too much tail flopping around, or settle for “close enough.” But when you’re investing in a quality handmade leather belt, one that’s going to last you decades, you deserve better than “close enough.” A properly sized belt: Sits comfortably at your natural waist or hips Fastens at the middle hole (giving you room to adjust either way) Has a tail that tucks neatly without excess bulk Looks clean and intentional, not makeshift Because each CG Creations belt is cut and finished by hand, we can make yours to your exact measurements. No compromise needed. The CG Creations Measuring Method Forget about measuring your waist with a tape measure, that method leaves too much room for error. The most accurate way to get your belt size is to measure a belt you already own and love the fit of. Here’s exactly how to do it: Step 1: Grab Your Favourite Belt Find a belt that fits you well. It doesn’t have to be fancy, just one that you wear regularly and feels comfortable. This is important because your “favourite hole” tells us exactly where you like your belt to sit. Step 2: Lay It Flat Lay the belt out straight on a flat surface. Make sure there are no twists or kinks in the leather. Step 3: Measure from Buckle End to Your Most-Used Hole Here’s the key bit: measure from the end of the leather where the buckle attaches to the hole you use most often. Not the first hole. Not the last hole. The one with the most wear, you’ll be able to spot it easily because it’ll look a bit stretched or have some character to it. That measurement in centimetres or inches? That’s your belt size. Why We Measure This Way Some guides will tell you to measure from the buckle prong or from the fold. But measuring from where the leather actually starts (at the buckle end) to your most-worn hole gives us the most accurate picture of how the belt will fit when you’re wearing it. It accounts for your buckle, your body, and your personal preference all in one simple measurement. If you have a non-standard buckle such as a trophy-style buckle, please contact us as the measuring process is slightly different, and we will need a few extra measurements. What If You Don’t Have a Belt to Measure? No worries, we’ve got you covered. If you don’t have an existing belt to measure, you can use a piece of string or a soft tape measure: Thread the string through the belt loops of your favourite pants (the ones you’ll wear the belt with most) Pull it to your comfortable tightness, not sucking-it-in tight, just normal comfortable Mark or pinch where it overlaps Lay the string flat and measure that length Add about 5-7cm (2-3 inches) to that measurement to allow for the tail that goes through the loops after the buckle. That’s your belt size. Pro tip: If you’re between sizes or unsure, it’s always better to go slightly longer. You can always use a hole closer to the buckle, but you can’t add leather that isn’t there. Want a Longer Tail? Just Let Us Know Everyone’s got their own preference when it comes to belt tail length. Some folks like a short, neat tail that just tucks into the first loop. Others prefer a longer tail for a more relaxed look. If you’d like a longer tail after the last hole, simply pop that in the order notes when you check out. Just write something like “Please add an extra 5cm to the tail” or “I prefer a longer tail, please add 3 inches.” Easy as that. Because every handmade leather belt we make is cut individually, accommodating your preference is no drama at all. It’s one of the perks of buying handmade rather than off-the-rack. What Makes a CG Creations Belt Worth Measuring For? You might be wondering why you’d go to the trouble of measuring when you could just grab something quick from the shops. Fair question. Here’s the difference: Full Grain Leather That Ages Beautifully Every belt we make uses full grain leather, the strongest, most durable part of the hide. Unlike bonded leather or “genuine leather” (which is often the weakest grade), full grain develops a rich patina over time. It gets better with age, moulding to your body and telling your story. A quality full grain leather belt isn’t just an accessory. It’s a piece of gear that’ll be with you for decades if you treat it right. Solid Brass Buckles Built to Last We don’t mess around with cheap hardware. Our solid brass buckle belts use buckles that won’t rust, corrode, or fall apart after a few years. Solid brass develops its own patina over time, complementing the leather beautifully. No plastic. No plated mystery metal. Just honest materials that do the job properly. Handmade in Wagga Wagga Every belt is cut, punched, edged, and finished by hand in our workshop. There’s no factory line, no overseas shipping container. Just quality craftsmanship from regional NSW. When you order a belt...

You’ve invested in a quality piece of leather gear: maybe a handmade leather belt that’s become your everyday go-to, or a dog collar that’s seen more paddocks than you can count. Now you want to make sure it sticks around for the long haul. Good news: looking after leather isn’t complicated. With a bit of simple care, your gear will develop that beautiful patina that only comes with years of honest use. And honestly? That’s when leather really starts to look its best. Let’s walk through everything you need to know to keep your full grain leather belt, collar, or other gear in top condition: even when it’s copping the dust, sweat, and grime that comes with rural life. Why Full-Grain Leather Is Worth the Extra Care Before we get into the how-to, let’s talk about why your gear deserves the attention in the first place. Full-grain leather is the real deal. It’s the top layer of the hide: the strongest, most durable part: with all its natural grain intact. Unlike cheaper “genuine leather” (which is often the leftover bits, sanded down and coated), full-grain leather actually gets better with age. Every scratch, every bit of wear, every drop of rain that hits it adds character. Over time, it develops a rich patina that’s completely unique to how you’ve used it. That’s not damage: that’s your story being written into the leather. But here’s the thing: even the toughest leather needs a hand now and then. Without basic care, it can dry out, crack, and lose that flexibility that makes it so comfortable to wear. A little maintenance goes a long way toward making sure your gear lasts for decades, not just years. The Basics: What Leather Actually Needs Think of leather a bit like your own skin. It needs to stay clean, hydrated, and protected from harsh conditions. Neglect it, and it dries out. Look after it, and it stays supple and strong. Here’s what that looks like in practice: Keep it clean – Dirt and grime can work their way into the grain and cause wear over time Keep it conditioned – Leather loses its natural oils with use, so you need to replace them Keep it dry – Excessive moisture isn’t great for leather, but don’t stress about a bit of rain Keep it breathing – Store it properly so it doesn’t get musty or mouldy That’s really it. No fancy products, no complicated routines. Just simple, regular care. Cleaning Off the Farm Dirt Let’s be real: if you’re using your leather gear out on the property, it’s going to get dirty. Dust, mud, sweat, maybe a bit of something you’d rather not think about. That’s just life on the land. The good news is that full-grain leather can handle it. But you don’t want to leave that grime sitting there for months on end. For everyday dust and dirt: Grab a soft, dry cloth or brush and give it a wipe down. This is especially important for belts that cop sweat around the buckle area, and dog collars that pick up everything from creek water to red dirt. For caked-on mud or heavier grime: Use a slightly damp cloth: emphasis on slightly. You’re not trying to soak the leather, just loosen up the dirt. Wipe it down gently, then let it air dry naturally. Don’t be tempted to throw it near the fire or hit it with a hair dryer. Heat dries leather out fast and can cause cracking. For stubborn marks: A tiny bit of diluted, unscented soap on a damp cloth can help. But test it on an inconspicuous spot first: you don’t want any surprises. Wipe it off with a clean damp cloth, then let it dry. Conditioning: The Secret to Long-Lasting Leather This is the step that makes the biggest difference, and it’s the one most people skip. Leather conditioner replaces the natural oils that get lost through everyday use. Without it, the leather gradually dries out and becomes stiff and brittle. With regular conditioning, it stays soft, flexible, and comfortable. How often should you condition? For gear that’s getting regular use: like your everyday handmade leather belt or your working dog’s collar: every three to six months is a good rule of thumb. If you’re in a particularly dry climate or your gear is copping a lot of sun and dust, lean toward the more frequent end. What conditioner should you use? You don’t need anything fancy. A quality leather conditioner or balm will do the job. Some folks swear by natural options like beeswax-based products, which also add a bit of water resistance. Avoid anything with silicone or petroleum: these can actually clog the leather and stop it from breathing. At CG Creations, we use and suggest Best Leather Care – Another local Australian-made product created here in NSW – Holbrook (PS get up to 10% off when you join their mailing list!) Order online, or you can find it in Wagga Wagga at Riverina Saddlery  How to apply it: Make sure the leather is clean and dry Put a small amount of conditioner on a soft cloth Rub it into the leather using circular motions Pay extra attention to areas that flex a lot (like where your belt bends around the buckle) Let it soak in for 15-20 minutes Buff off any excess with a clean cloth Your leather will look darker immediately after conditioning: that’s normal. It’ll lighten back up as it absorbs and dries. Dealing With Water and Wet Weather Look, we build our gear for rural life. We know it’s going to see some rain. A full grain leather belt or collar isn’t going to fall apart if it gets wet. But water can cause issues if you don’t handle it right. Here’s what to do: If your leather gets wet: Blot off the excess water with a dry cloth (don’t rub) Let it air dry naturally at room temperature Once it’s completely dry, give...

There’s nothing worse than ordering a beautiful handmade leather dog collar only to find it doesn’t fit your four-legged mate properly. Too tight and they’re uncomfortable. Too loose and it slips right over their head during an exciting rabbit chase. Neither situation is ideal. Getting the right fit on a custom leather dog collar isn’t complicated. It just takes a couple of minutes and a bit of know-how. Whether you’ve got a tiny Chihuahua who rules the house or a hardworking Kelpie out on the paddock, this guide will help you nail the perfect measurement every time. Why Proper Fit Actually Matters Before we get into the measuring, let’s talk about why this is worth doing properly. A well-fitted handmade leather dog collar isn’t just about looks. It’s about your dog’s comfort and safety. A collar that’s too tight can restrict breathing, cause skin irritation, and make your dog miserable. A collar that’s too loose? That’s a recipe for a lost dog: especially if they spot something worth chasing. Here in regional NSW, we see plenty of working dogs and farm dogs who need collars that can handle rough conditions. A proper fit means the collar stays put when your dog is crawling under fences, swimming in dams, or doing what dogs do best. What You’ll Need Good news: you probably already have everything: A soft measuring tape (the kind you’d use for sewing) A piece of string or ribbon (if you don’t have a measuring tape) A ruler (only if using the string method) Your dog (obviously) Some treats (to keep them still for 30 seconds) That’s it. No fancy equipment required. The Best Way to Measure: Use an Existing Collar If your dog already has a collar that fits well, this is the easiest and most accurate way to size a new one. For Buckle Collars: Measure from the fold of the leather at the buckle end to the hole that is most worn/used. This ensures the new collar fits exactly where they are comfortable. For Clip-up Collars: Simply lay the collar flat and measure the length of the material from end to end (do not include the buckle/clip parts). Pop your measurement in at checkout, and tell us which method you used in your order notes. Special Considerations for Different Dogs Small Breeds and Leather Dog Collars for Small Dogs Little dogs need a bit of extra care when measuring. Their necks are more delicate, and even a small measurement error makes a bigger difference. For breeds like Dachshunds, Chihuahuas, Mini Foxy’s, and Jack Russells, precision matters. Our Dashie Collar is designed specifically for these smaller mates: proportioned correctly so the collar doesn’t overwhelm their frame or feel bulky. When measuring small dogs, using an existing well-fitting collar is the easiest way to get it spot on: especially when they’re wriggly. Working Dogs and Farm Dogs Out here around Wagga Wagga and regional NSW, working dogs earn their keep. They need collars that can handle mud, water, dust, and everything else the Australian bush throws at them. For Kelpies, Border Collies, Cattle Dogs, and other working breeds, our Kelpie Collar is built tough. Full-grain leather with solid brass hardware that won’t rust or corrode. When measuring working dogs, use their everyday collar (the one that sits comfortably during work). Measure to the most-used hole so you land right on their normal fit, with adjustment room either way. Puppies Growing pups are tricky. What fits today might be too small in a month. If you’re ordering a custom leather dog collar for a puppy, measure their current collar (if they have one) and leave us a note that they’re still growing. We can help you build in sensible adjustment room. Common Measuring Mistakes to Avoid Don’t add extra “just in case”: It’s tempting to round up, but an oversized collar is just as problematic as one that’s too small. Trust your measurement. Don’t measure the wrong point on a buckle collar: We need buckle fold → most-used hole (not the full length, and not buckle end → tip). Don’t include the clip hardware on clip-up collars: Measure the strap/material only, end to end, with the collar laid flat. Don’t guess: Seriously, just measure. It takes less than a minute and makes all the difference. What Happens When You Order When you order a handmade leather dog collar from us, we use the measurement from your existing well-fitting collar as the reference point for the new one, so your dog lands right on their comfortable fit. Every collar is cut and stitched right here in our Wagga Wagga workshop. We use full-grain leather that’ll soften and develop character over time, and solid brass hardware that’s built to last. Still Not Sure? If you’re stuck between sizes or have a dog with an unusual build, just get in touch. We’re happy to help you figure out the right fit. You can browse our full range of dog collars or contact us directly. We’ve fitted collars on everything from tiny teacup breeds to massive Great Danes, so there’s not much we haven’t seen. And if you need something truly custom: maybe a specific width or a unique personalisation: we can sort that out too through our custom leather products service. Quick Reference: Measuring Checklist ✓ Use an existing collar that fits your dog well ✓ Buckle collar: measure from buckle fold → most-used hole ✓ Clip-up collar: measure strap/material end to end (exclude the clip parts) ✓ Measurement noted down ✓ Tell us which method you used in your order notes That’s all there is to it. A couple of minutes now means years of comfortable wear for your best mate. And honestly, there’s something pretty satisfying about seeing your dog in a quality handmade leather collar that fits just right.

If you’ve got a little mate, a Dachshund, Chihuahua, Mini Foxy, or any other pint-sized pup, you already know that finding the right collar isn’t as simple as grabbing whatever’s on the shelf at the pet store. Small dogs have different needs. Their necks are more delicate. Their skin can be more sensitive. And let’s be honest, they deserve something that looks as good as they do. That’s exactly why we created The Dashie Collar here at CG Creations. It’s designed specifically for small breeds, and it’s become one of our most popular items for good reason. But before you buy any leather collar for your little one, here are seven things you really should know. 1. Weight Matters More Than You Think Ever tried wearing a chunky necklace all day? It gets uncomfortable pretty quick, right? Now imagine that around the neck of a dog that weighs less than a bag of flour. Heavy collars can cause real problems for small dogs. We’re talking neck strain, discomfort, and in some cases, restricted breathing. Those big, bulky collars you see on Kelpies and German Shepherds? They’re not built for your Dachshund. When we designed The Dashie Collar, weight was one of the first things we considered. We use just enough leather to be durable without adding unnecessary bulk. The result is a collar that sits comfortably on your dog’s neck all day: whether they’re napping on the couch or tearing around the backyard. 2. Width: Getting It Right for Small Necks Here’s something a lot of people don’t realise: collar width isn’t just about looks. It’s about function and comfort. For small dogs: especially those weighing under 10kg: a narrower collar is almost always the better choice. We’re talking widths around 12mm to 19mm (half to three-quarter inch). Why? A collar that’s too wide can: Restrict your dog’s head movement Rub awkwardly against their chin or chest Create pressure points on their delicate trachea The Dashie Collar comes in at a width that’s perfectly suited for small breeds. It’s wide enough to be sturdy and visible, but narrow enough that it won’t get in the way of your pup living their best life. 3. Softness: Why Full-Grain Leather Wins Every Time Not all leather is created equal. And when it comes to your small dog’s sensitive skin, quality matters. Those cheap, mass-produced collars you find at big-box stores? They’re often made from bonded leather or synthetic materials that can be stiff, scratchy, and irritating. They might look okay at first, but they don’t soften over time: and they can cause rashes or hair loss around your dog’s neck. Full-grain leather is different. It’s the real deal: the top layer of the hide, with all its natural strength and flexibility intact. Here’s the thing about full-grain leather: it actually gets better with age. It starts out slightly firm (not stiff like the cheap stuff), then softens and moulds to your dog’s neck over the first few weeks. It becomes totally unique to your pup. At CG Creations, we only use full-grain leather for our dog collars. It’s more comfortable, more durable, and honestly, it just looks better. 4. Hardware: Built for Strength and Safety Let’s talk about the metal bits: the buckle, the D-ring, and any other hardware on the collar. For small dogs, you want hardware that’s: Lightweight (so it doesn’t weigh down the collar) Strong (so it doesn’t snap when your pup lunges at a passing magpie) Rust-resistant (because Aussie weather can be brutal) Our heavy-duty hardware ticks all three boxes. It’s designed to be lightweight but still incredibly strong. It won’t rust, even if your dog loves a good splash in the creek. We use only high-quality metal components on The Dashie Collar and all our other dog collars. 5. Personalisation: Make It Theirs There’s something special about a collar with your dog’s name stamped right into the leather. It’s not just about looks (though it does look pretty great). It’s practical too. If your little escape artist ever gets out, a name stamped into the collar won’t fall off or fade like a metal tag can. We hand-stamp every personalised collar here in our Wagga Wagga workshop. You can add your dog’s name, your phone number, or both. Each letter is pressed into the leather one at a time, so every collar is genuinely one-of-a-kind. It’s a small touch that makes a big difference: and it’s included as an option on The Dashie Collar. 6. Longevity: One Good Collar Beats Ten Cheap Ones Let’s do some quick maths. A cheap synthetic collar from the pet store might cost you $15-20. But how long does it last? Six months? A year if you’re lucky? The plastic buckle cracks, the fabric frays, and before you know it, you’re back at the shop buying another one. Over your dog’s lifetime, that adds up: not just in dollars, but in trips to the store and collars ending up in landfill. A quality handmade leather collar costs more upfront, sure. But it’s built to last years. We’re talking a decade or more with proper care. The leather ages beautifully, the hardware stays strong, and you’re not constantly replacing it. That’s the kind of quality we aim for with every piece we make. 7. Measuring: Get the Fit Right the First Time Nothing’s worse than ordering a collar online and having it arrive too big or too small. For small dogs, getting the fit right is especially important. Too loose, and they’ll slip right out of it. Too tight, and you’re causing discomfort. Check out our articleon how to get the perfect fit Here If you’re ever unsure, just get in touch with us. We’re happy to help you figure out the perfect size before you order. The Dashie Collar: Built for Small Breeds We created The Dashie Collar because we saw too many small dogs wearing collars that just weren’t right for them: too heavy, too wide, too stiff, with dodgy...

Full Grain vs. Genuine Leather: Why Quality Matters for Your Gear You’ve probably seen the words “genuine leather” or “real leather” slapped on everything from dog collars to handbags. But here’s the thing, not all leather is created equal. In fact, there’s a massive difference between the premium full-grain leather we use here at CG Creations and the cheap genuine leather stuff you’ll find in most big-box stores. If you’ve ever bought a belt that cracked after six months or a dog collar that started peeling apart, you’ve likely experienced genuine leather firsthand. And trust me, once you understand what’s actually in that material, you’ll never look at “leather” products the same way again. Let’s break it down so you know exactly what you’re getting when you invest in quality gear. What Exactly Is Full-Grain Leather? Full-grain leather is the real deal. It’s the entire outer layer of the animal hide with minimal processing, no sanding, no buffing, no cover-ups. What you see is what you get: the natural grain, the unique markings, and all the character that comes with genuine leather. This is the strongest, most durable part of the hide. Because it hasn’t been altered or weakened by heavy processing, full-grain leather keeps all its natural fibres intact. That’s what gives it exceptional tensile strength and the ability to resist abrasion, punctures, and daily wear. Here in Wagga Wagga, this is the only type of leather we work with. When you’re making gear for working dogs on farms or belts that need to hold up day after day, there’s simply no substitute. So What’s Genuine Leather Then? Here’s where things get a bit dodgy. Genuine leather sounds legitimate, but it’s basically the fast food of the leather world. Genuine leather is manufactured from leftover scraps of real leather, the bits and pieces left on the cutting room floor, combined with industrial polyurethane or latex glue. We’re talking about a material that typically contains only 10-20% actual leather mixed with chemical binders and synthetic backing. Manufacturers then stamp a fake grain pattern onto the surface to make it look like the real thing. The pattern repeats identically across the entire piece, that’s actually one of the easiest ways to spot it. Can it be called leather? Technically, yes. Is it going to perform like leather? Absolutely not. The Durability Factor: Why It Actually Matters Let’s talk about what happens when these two materials face real-world use. Full-grain leather is approximately 10% denser than genuine leather, which contributes significantly to its structural integrity. It can handle tension, friction, and stress without breaking down. A well-made full-grain leather belt or dog collar can last decades with proper care. Genuine leather? It’s actually the weakest option available. Because it’s essentially scraps held together with glue, it will delaminate and separate under stress. Most genuine leather products fail within 1-2 years, depending on how often they’re used. Think about what a dog collar goes through: pulling, getting wet, exposure to dirt and mud, constant movement. Or a belt that’s buckled and unbuckled every single day, bearing tension whenever you move. These items need to withstand serious wear. Genuine leather stretches noticeably under tension (that’s why manufacturers often reinforce it with fabric backing). Full-grain leather holds its shape and actually becomes more supple over time without losing strength. The Beauty of Patina: How Quality Leather Ages Here’s something that surprises a lot of people: good leather actually gets better with age. Full-grain leather develops what’s called a patina over time. It’s that rich, warm colour variation and subtle sheen that comes from natural oils, sunlight, and regular use. Your gear starts to tell a story. It becomes uniquely yours. A full-grain leather belt that’s been worn for five years has character. It moulds to your body. The colour deepens and becomes richer. It looks lived-in and loved: not worn out. Genuine leather does the opposite. It doesn’t develop patina because there’s not enough real leather there to age gracefully. Instead, it cracks, fades, peels, and delaminates. Within a few years, it looks tired and cheap. And because it can’t breathe like real leather, it often develops that unpleasant synthetic smell over time. Why This Matters for Dog Collars Your dog’s collar isn’t just an accessory: it’s a safety item. It needs to be strong enough to handle sudden movements, secure enough to keep your pup safe, and comfortable enough for all-day wear. Full-grain leather dog collars offer: Superior strength that won’t snap under pressure Natural water resistance that handles muddy puddles and rainy walks Comfortable wear that softens and moulds to your dog’s neck over time Longevity that means you’re not replacing collars every year Genuine leather collars absorb moisture readily, which can lead to warping, unpleasant odours, or even mould growth. They crack and peel, creating rough edges that can irritate your dog’s skin. And when they fail, they often do so suddenly: which is the last thing you want when you’re relying on that collar to keep your dog safe. For working dogs especially: the kelpies, border collies, and cattle dogs out here in regional NSW: a collar needs to survive farm life. That means dust, water, rough play, and constant activity. Full-grain leather handles all of it. Why This Matters for Belts A good belt is one of those everyday items you shouldn’t have to think about. It should just work, day after day, year after year. Full-grain leather belts with solid brass or stainless steel hardware are built to last. The leather won’t crack or peel. The edges won’t fray. The holes won’t stretch out and become useless. You put it on in the morning and forget about it. Cheap genuine leather belts? They start looking shabby within months. The fake grain coating peels away. The material stretches so much that you’re constantly punching new holes. The surface cracks along the fold lines. And eventually, you’re back at the shop buying another one. When you add up the cost...

You’ve probably noticed that not all belt buckles are created equal. Some look flash in the shop but turn green, flaky, or straight-up rusty within a year. Others just keep getting better with time. The difference? It usually comes down to one thing: what that hardware is actually made of. At CG Creations, every solid brass buckle belt, dog collar, and piece of custom leather goods leaves the workshop fitted with solid brass hardware. Not plated. Not coated. Solid brass, through and through. Here’s why that matters more than you might think. The Problem with Cheap Plated Hardware Let’s talk about what you’re actually getting when you buy a “budget” belt or collar from a big box store. Most mass-produced leather goods use zinc alloy or steel hardware that’s been electroplated with a thin layer of brass or nickel. It looks decent enough on the shelf. But here’s what happens in the real world: The plating wears off. Every time you thread your belt, every time your dog runs through scrub, that thin coating gets scratched and worn away. Rust sets in. Once that base metal is exposed, moisture does the rest. You end up with orange stains on your leather and a buckle that looks like it came out of a shipwreck. It just looks cheap. There’s no hiding a flaking, discoloured buckle. Your gear starts looking tired way before the leather does. You might save a few dollars upfront, but you’ll be replacing that belt or collar sooner than you’d like. And honestly? That’s not a great deal for anyone. Why Solid Brass Is the Answer Solid brass isn’t a coating or a finish. It’s the whole thing: all the way through. And that makes a massive difference. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, and it’s been used for centuries in everything from ship fittings to musical instruments. Why? Because it just works. It’s strong, it’s resistant to corrosion, and it handles wear like a champ. When we fit a handmade leather belt or collar with solid brass hardware, we’re not just making it look good today. We’re making sure it still looks good in ten, twenty, or thirty years. Rust Resistance You Can Actually Count On One of the biggest advantages of brass is that it doesn’t rust. At all. Steel rusts. Iron rusts. Even stainless steel can corrode under the right (or wrong) conditions. But brass? It just doesn’t have that problem. This is huge for anyone who works outdoors, lives in a humid climate, or has gear that gets sweaty, muddy, or rained on regularly. Your solid brass buckle belt isn’t going to leave orange streaks on your favourite shirt. Your dog’s collar isn’t going to stain their fur or irritate their skin. It’s one less thing to worry about: and when you’re busy on the farm or out in the paddock, that matters. Strength That Stands Up to Real Work Brass isn’t just pretty: it’s tough. It has a natural strength and hardness that makes it ideal for hardware that needs to handle repeated stress. Think about how many times you buckle and unbuckle your belt every single day. That’s thousands of cycles a year, year after year. Cheap hardware wears out, bends, or breaks. Solid brass keeps going. The same goes for dog collars, lead clips, and all the hardware on our farm gear. When you’re dealing with a strong working dog or hauling equipment around, you need hardware that’s not going to let you down at the worst possible moment. Solid brass delivers that reliability without being brittle or prone to snapping under pressure. The Beauty of Patina Here’s where things get really interesting. Over time, solid brass develops what’s called a patina: a natural darkening and mellowing of the surface. It’s not damage or decay. It’s character. A well-worn brass buckle tells a story. It shows the years of use, the days in the sun, the hard work. It becomes uniquely yours. Compare that to plated hardware, which just looks worse with age. The coating chips, the base metal shows through, and it ends up looking shabby rather than distinguished. With solid brass, your gear actually gets better looking the longer you use it. The leather softens and moulds to you, the brass develops that rich, warm tone, and the whole piece becomes something special. That’s the kind of gear you pass down, not throw out. Buy Once, Cry Once You’ve probably heard this saying before. It’s the idea that spending more upfront on quality saves you money (and frustration) in the long run. It’s pretty simple maths when you think about it: A cheap belt might cost you $30 and last two years before the buckle’s shot and the leather’s cracked. Over ten years, that’s $150 and five trips to the shops. A handmade leather belt with solid brass hardware might cost you $120 upfront. But it lasts those same ten years: and probably another ten after that. Plus, it looks better the whole time. Same story with dog collars, tool pouches, and everything else we make. Quality materials and solid construction mean you’re not constantly replacing gear that’s fallen apart. Is it more expensive at the checkout? Sure. But it’s cheaper over the lifetime of the product. And it’s way less hassle. What This Means for CG Creations Gear Every piece that leaves our workshop in Wagga Wagga is fitted with solid brass hardware. No exceptions. Whether you’re ordering a custom leather belt, a tough dog collar for your working Kelpie, or something from our farm gear range, you’re getting hardware that’s built to last as long as the leather itself. We pair that hardware with full-grain leather: the strongest, most durable grade you can get. It’s the combination of these two materials that makes our gear genuinely last a lifetime. And because everything is handmade and custom-sized, you’re getting a perfect fit that’s totally unique to you. Not something mass-produced overseas with corners cut at...

So you want to get into leatherworking. Maybe you’ve seen some handmade belts online and thought, “I could make that.” Or perhaps you’ve been eyeing up custom dog collars and wallets, dreaming about creating your own gear from scratch. Here’s the thing: you jump onto Google searching for leather tool kits and suddenly you’re drowning in options. Hundreds of tools. Confusing names. Kits ranging from $20 to $500. Do you really need a French edger? What even IS a pricking iron? Take a breath. I’ve been there, and I’ve helped plenty of beginners at our Wagga Wagga workshops navigate this exact overwhelm. The truth? You don’t need a shed full of fancy tools to start making quality leather goods. You need the RIGHT tools: and that’s exactly what I’m going to break down for you today. Why Most “Beginner” Kits Get It Wrong Here’s something that frustrates me about a lot of leather craft kits on the market: they’re either stuffed with cheap tools that’ll break after three uses, or they’re missing half the essentials you actually need. When I put together our beginner kits, I asked myself one question: What would I actually hand to someone walking into my workshop for the first time? The answer became our beginner leather tool kit range: the same style of practical, workshop-ready tools we use every day, making belts, collars, and custom leather goods right here in Australia. The Deluxe Beginner Leather Working Tool Kit ($89): Best Value (and the one I’d pick) If you’re serious about getting into leatherwork and you want results you’ll actually feel proud of from day one, the Deluxe Beginner Leather Working Tool Kit ($89) is the better buy. It’s the most complete option, and it saves you from the “buy a cheap kit… then replace half of it” cycle. Here’s why it’s a smarter investment. Why the Deluxe kit is worth it The Deluxe kit includes the core tools you need plus the more specialised gear that makes your work look cleaner and more professional: Edge beveler to knock off sharp corners and start getting those smooth, finished edges (huge difference on belts, keyrings, and dog collars) Dividers to mark neat, even stitch lines and borders so everything looks straight and consistent More stitching options with a wider mix of needles and thread, so you can match the job (and avoid bulky, messy stitches) Stitch groover to sink your stitches slightly into the leather for a tougher, tidier finish Extra stamping tools so you can add simple detail and make pieces feel totally unique to you Extra leather pieces for bigger practice runs and more projects That combination is what helps beginners get more “workshop-quality” results without needing a pile of extra add-ons. The Bonus That Makes All The Difference Every kit still comes with bonus leather off-cuts, so you can start practising straight away. No hunting around for leather. No waiting for another delivery. You open the box, and you’re ready to go. These aren’t rubbish scraps either: they’re genuine off-cuts from our workshop, the same quality full-grain leather we use for our handmade belts and dog collars. Perfect for testing your stamps, practising straight stitch lines with your dividers, and getting your edges looking smooth before you tackle a “proper” project. The Beginner Leather Working Starter Kit ($49): a great taster option If you’re on a budget (or you just want to see if leatherwork is your thing), the $49 Beginner Leather Working Starter Kit is a solid place to start. Our Beginner Leather Working Starter Kit gives you the essentials for your first few projects: The Mallet For stamping, punching holes, and setting hardware with controlled strikes. Pricking Irons For evenly spaced stitching holes so your stitch line stays neat. Punches Handy for holes for buckles and hardware. The rotary punch gives you multiple sizes in one tool. Stamping Tools For simple patterns and personal touches, just like we use when personalising custom orders. What About All Those Other Tools You’ve Seen? Fair question. You’ve probably seen leatherworkers with benches covered in dozens of specialised tools. Here’s my honest take: Start simple. Add as you go. Tools like French edgers and specialty punches are fantastic, but the big one that helps beginners tidy things up fast is dividers. That’s why I rate the Deluxe kit as Best Value: marking clean stitch lines and borders is one of the quickest ways to make a beginner project look more “finished” from day one. Our kits give you the foundation to learn proper techniques. Once you know what you’re doing, you’ll have a much better idea of which additional tools suit YOUR style of work. Some leatherworkers love tooling and carving. Others focus on stitching and construction. Your toolkit should grow with your interests, not overwhelm you before you’ve even cut your first piece. Workshop-Quality Tools (Because That’s What We Use) Here’s something worth mentioning: these aren’t “beginner quality” tools in the sense of being cheap or disposable. They’re beginner-FRIENDLY tools that are actually good. The exact same punches, mallets, and irons in our leather craft kits Australia customers love are the ones sitting on the benches at our Riverina Community College workshops. When students come to learn belt-making or keyring crafting, they’re using these tools. Why does that matter? Because if you decide to book a workshop later, you’ll already be familiar with the equipment. And if you just want to learn at home from YouTube tutorials, you’ve got professional-grade gear that won’t let you down. Your First Projects: Where to Start Got your kit? Brilliant. Here’s what I’d suggest tackling first: Project 1: Simple Keyring Cut a strip, punch some holes, add a keyring finding. Done. This teaches you cutting, punching, and basic assembly in about 20 minutes. Project 2: Card Holder Two pieces of leather, some stitching around the edges. This is where you’ll practice your pricking iron technique and hand-stitching. Expect your first one to be a bit rough: that’s completely...